Wyszłam w Ochrydzie na śniadanie. W pobliskich knajpach siedzą sami miejscowi faceci. Przeciągają się niespiesznie sącząc kawę, wypalając kolejnego papierosa i debatując o czymś głośno. Czuję na sobie ich spojrzenia, więc szukam knajpy z przynajmniej jedną kobietą, tak na wszelki wypadek. Co innego gdyby to byli sami młodzi faceci, od razu bym z uśmiechem usiadła obok, ale wśród tych jakoś mi niezręcznie. Mało tu teraz turystów, sami miejscowi, szczególnie nad ranem. „Zdravo! Szopska i kava. Hvala.” – ćwiczę swój macedoński. Kelnerzy uśmiechają się szerzej, gdy słyszą, że się staram poznać ich język. Zresztą mnie też fascynuje odkrywanie nowych słów i zaskakiwanie się, że macedoński i polski mają tak wiele wspólnego.
Kawa po turecku na środku jeziora
Będąc na Bałkanach piję tylko kawę turecką, która poza Bałkanami nie smakuje tak dobrze. Jest to kawa przygotowywana w rondelku zwanym cezve, gotuje się ją na ogniu i wyczekuje odpowiedniego momentu, by zabrać z palnika i wlać do filiżanki. Pierwszą kawę w Macedonii przygotował mi Ivan, u którego mieszkałam w Skopje. Przepyszna była, mocna, aromatyczna. Kolejną już nauczyłam się robić sama pod okiem Ivana. Potwierdził, że wychodzi mi dobra. Zwycięstwo! W Ochrydzie kawę przygotował mi o świcie boatman, na łodzi. Nazywa się Bobby i mówił, że nawet CNN nagrał o nim materiał. Bobby’ego spotkałam o poranku tuż przy jeziorze, gdy postanowiłam powitać budzące się miasto. Zabrał mnie na mini rejs. „Daj aparat, siadaj, zrobię Ci zdjęcie, wrzucisz na Facebooka i wszyscy znajomi będą lajkować. A wiesz, miałem kiedyś dziewczynę z Polski, piękna była, jak modelka. Polki mają piękne twarze. Chodź, zrobimy sobie jeszcze selfie, a potem kawę.“
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Kawa o poranku na łódce smakuje przepysznie choć może nie jest wybitna jakościowo. Sam proces przygotowywania jej w tygielku na łodzi, aromat kawy połączony z ochrydzkim powietrzem i zapachem jeziora to cudne przeżycie. Moje kawowe marzenie spełniło się.
Zupa rybna na śniadanie
„Na śniadanie idź na ciorbę” – zasugerował Bobby – „najlepiej do knajpy Belvedere, my miejscowi tam chodzimy, jest najlepsza“. Zupa rybna na śniadanie? Odważnie. Spróbowałam. Jest mętna, mdła, gęsta. Dla mnie smakuje jak mleczna zupa rybna. Nie jest zła, ale chyba wolę na śniadanie coś innego.
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Z hollywoodzkim aktorem
Skończyłam jeść zupę, pakuję aparat, wołam kelnera. Podchodzi inny boatman, przysiada się do stolika. Też zamawia ciorbę, ale mięsną. To Christopher. Był podobno hollywoodzkim aktorem, ludzie z Ameryki przyjeżdżali specjalnie do Ochrydu nagrywać film tylko o nim, a teraz stale spływa mu do kieszeni 15% z dochodów z tego filmu. „Ja wyglądam jak z Hollywoodu, tak mi mówią” – odparł znad zupy poprawiając marynarską czapeczkę. „OK…” – pokiwałam głową. Próbował mnie zbajerować na łódkę i swoją historyczno-filozoficzną wiedzę, którą podobno miał ogrooomną, ale już pływałam z Bobbym i spieszyłam się na spotkanie z blogerką. „Taaa, Bobby. Nie mam nic do niego. Intelektem nie powala, ale przynajmniej robi dobrą kawę. Ja kawy nie zrobię, ale daję ludziom wiedzę”. Nie dziś Chris, nie dziś.
Szopska sałata codziennie
A teraz się przyznam. Tak naprawdę w Macedonii jadłam głównie szopską sałatę, od której uzależniłam się. Jadłam ją prawie codziennie, a czasami dwa razy dziennie. Chciałam naprawdę spróbować innych potraw, ale gdy zaglądałam do menu, ciągle zamawiałam szopską. Po miesiącu pobytu w Macedonii na takiej szopskiej diecie wysmuklałabym nie do poznania. Pomidory, ogórki, duuużo owczego sera, przyprawy. Niebo w gębie. Co ciekawe, szopska zarówno w dobrych restauracjach jak i małych knajpach kosztowała podobnie: 100-130 denarów macedońskich, czyli 7-9 polskich złotych. Wszędzie też była duża i sycąca. Oto moja galeria szopskich sałat. Tęsknię. Dla niej wracam chętniej na Bałkany.
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Szopska i rakija – popularny zestaw
„Ilona, my tu szopską popijamy rakiją. Szopska i rakija – najlepszy zestaw”. Zatem moją pierwszą rakiję wypiłam w Skopje z Aleksandrą, moją nową macedońską koleżanką, autorką bloga: Aleksandravezilka.wordpress.com Ona mi pokazała miasto nocą i smaki tego miasta. Cudna dziewczyna, równa babka, artystyczna dusza, tęsknię za naszymi rozmowami i wspólnym eksplorowaniem miasta nocami.
Burek i banichka – tłuste i pyszne
Kolejna pyszna rzecz po szopskiej, dzięki której uwielbiam Bałkany. Burek jest to tłuste i mało zdrowe ciasto wypełnione serem lub mięsem, ale za to pyszne i sycące. Szybka przekąska „na mieście”. Po wylądowaniu w Skopje specjalnie nic nie jadłam, by moim pierwszym posiłkiem był burek.
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Gdy w niedzielę nowi macedońscy znajomi zabrali mnie na wycieczkę w góry, kupiliśmy banichki, czyli coś podobnego do burka. Też z serem lub mięsem, też tłuste i smaczne. Do tego jogurt. Zestaw na wycieczkę idealny.
Inne rzeczy, placki i frytki z serem
Z Azize, uroczą blogerką ze Strugi (rosee96.blogspot.com) spędziłyśmy popołudnie w bajkowej restauracji nad jeziorem ochrydzkim. „Azize, muszę spróbować czegoś innego, niż szopska”. Na moim talerzu wylądowały zatem trójkąciki serka topionego smażone w panierce i frytki posypane owczym serem: Raz w Ochrydzie poszłam do restauracji i długo walczyłam ze sobą, by nie zamówić szopskiej. „Przecież nie mogę mieć zdjęć tylko tej sałaty”. Spróbowałam tureckiego placka, turkish pide:
Spróbowałam też czegoś na słodko, oto „ohrydzkie” ciasto, czyli po prostu czekoladowy tort z orzechami i karmelem. Mega słodki.
AJVAR – mega wow!
O ajvarze, czyli paście z pieczonych papryk i pieczonych bakłażanów słyszałam wiele, jednak gdy spróbowałam ajvaru robionego przez ciocię Ivana, takiego domowego ajvaru, zakochałam się w jego smaku. To taka przyjemność, która przechodzi ciarkami przez całe Twoje ciało. Prze-pysz-ne. Można jeść z kanapką, mięsem, serem, jajecznicą lub sam. Kupiłam słoiczek ajvaru rodzicom, jednak ten ze sklepu nie smakował już tak dobrze jak domowy. Mam nadzieję, że ciocia Ivana podzieli się przepisem i zrobię sama z kilkadziesiąt słoików.
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Piwo?
W Macedonii na wielu billboardach widnieje reklama piwa Skopsko. Bardzo komercyjne piwo. Kilka osób, które poznałam polecało mi jednak bardziej inne macedońskie – Zlaten Dab z browaru w Prilepie. Pierwszy raz spróbowałam nad Kanionem Matka, z Macedończykami. Nie jest złe, ale jednak jeśli Macedonia to zdecydowanie bardziej tu smakuje wino i rakija.
Wino, wino, wino
Macedonia znana jest z dobrych win, zatem pewnego dnia specjalnie wybrałam się do regionu pełnego winnic, miejscowości o winiarskich tradycjach – Kavadarci. Jechałam tam kilkaset kilometrów autobusem, by w rezultacie pocałować klamkę w winnicy. Była zamknięta. Poszłam więc do restauracji, zamówiłam szopską sałatkę i wino pochodzące z tej zamkniętej winnicy. Nie można było na kieliszki, trzeba było kupić butelkę, a raczej buteleczkę. Wypiłam i byłam szczęśliwa. Bardzo szczęśliwa:) A potem poszłam do sklepu, kupiłam więcej takich win i pojechałam dalej. PS. Jeśli byliście na Bałkanach to napiszcie mi co dobrego próbowaliście. Wpiszę na listę „następnym razem”. Ja naprawdę chciałam spróbować więcej pysznych macedońskich potraw, których jest wieeele. Jednak za każdym razem, gdy otwierałam menu wzrok mój przykuwała szopska sałata. I zamawiałam ją codziennie. I nie żałuję.
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