Po wyjściu z lotniska w Bombaju uderzył we mnie zapach, totalnie inny niż dotychczasowe miejskie zapachy. Dusząca słodycz, kadzidła, przyprawy, brud i kurz wymieszane ze sobą i podgrzane gorącym powietrzem.
Chwilę potem posłyszałam krzyk klaksonów, który zaczął towarzyszyć mi dniami i nocami.
Wciąż mam w pamięci drogę rikszą z lotniska do mieszkania Harry’ego.
Mijamy slumsy, ludzie leżą na ulicy, w kupie cegieł i dykt przypominających domy suszą się kolorowe szmaty, ktoś gotuje na chodniku, ktoś inny sprzedaje na ulicy jedzenie, obok przechodzi ładnie ubrana kobieta, Hindusi zaglądają z zaciekawieniem do rikszy, z której powiewają moje blond włosy (a takie blond włosy jednak w Indiach budzą ciekawość).
Trzeba trzymać się mocno rikszy, nie tylko na zakrętach. Ktoś zajeżdża drogę, trzeba szybko wyprzedzić, jedyną zasadą ruchu jest tu chyba tylko jechać przed siebie. Klakson klakson klaaaakson. Zmysły wariują. Riksze szaleją.
„OK Ilona…spokojnie. Przyzwyczaisz się“.
Harry zostawia nam klucze do swojego mieszkania, a sam wyjeżdża na wakacje. Pobyt zapowiada się nieźle. Tylko te klaksony, klaksony…
Na bombajskiej ulicy Twoja uwaga musi być na wysokim poziomie.
W każdym momencie możesz zderzyć się z rikszą lub innym pojazdem.
W pewnym sensie było to zabawne, czułam się jak w grze.
Ja, główny bohater, którego zadaniem jest dotarcie z punktu A do punktu B cało, a zewsząd atakują Cię te riksze. Najciekawiej było przebiegać przez duże skrzyżowanie. Mój refleks sięgał zenitu.
Podziwiam bombajskich rikszarzy.
Jadą sobie w tym chaosie, wyprzedzają, trąbią, ale żaden nie narzeka pod nosem, nie klnie. Po prostu zaakceptował, że tak jest i przynajmniej nie przekazuje Ci negatywnej energii (jak na przykład narzekający taksówkarze w Polsce), choć to też niezłe cwaniaki. Tomek zna Indie bardzo dobrze, więc od razu miałam szkołę jak twardo z tymi rikszarzami rozmawiać i negocjować, bo skosić Cię mogą grubo lub wieźć naokoło, udając że nie słyszą, że pomylili drogę.
Zmęczył mnie Bombaj, a ja przecież lubię tętniące życiem miasta. Sześć dni to zdecydowanie za dużo. Najbardziej męczące są chyba dojazdy. Żeby dojechać na jakieś spotkanie, trzeba z 2-3 godziny wcześniej wyjść z domu i mieć na uwadze, że po drodze zaliczysz zatłoczony pociąg. Ale tak zatłoczony, że spajasz się z tymi Hindusami w jedną tkankę pasażerską. No OK, mieszkaliśmy na obrzeżach, ale nawet komunikacja w obrębie „centrum” tak wygląda. Chyba, że jedziesz taksówką, ale tutaj też korki i śmiganie serpentynami po ulicach.
Na szczęście Hindusi są bardzo grzeczni, przyjemni, uczynni i zdystansowani, więc na ulicy i w komunikacji miejskiej nie było żadnych dziwnych sytuacji na linii damsko-męskiej, nawet gdy byłam jedyną kobietą w zatłoczonym wagonie męskim.
Nie jesteśmy tu na wakacjach, ale eksplorując pracujemy.
W związku z tym naszym celem, oprócz przeżycia, było znalezienie miejsc do popracowania w spokoju. Zadanie niełatwe, ale wykonalne.
Odkrywaliśmy w związku z tym bombajskie knajpy, dotykając całkowicie różnego Bombaju. Nasze „mobilne biuro” stacjonowało w obskurnych kawiarniach, w których bałam się dotknąć ręką stołu, jak i nowoczesnych restauracjach z nowoczesną muzyką i wypolerowanym barem.
Zostaliśmy stałym bywalcem centrum handlowego, bo właśnie tam i tylko w jednej restauracji o nazwie „Blue Mumbai” było sprawne wifi. Co ciekawe, jedzenie w tych „meliniastych” knajpach było często lepsze, niż w tych „fancy”.
Ale o jedzeniu będzie osobna notka.
Ech, dobrze czuję się w Indiach, zwłaszcza jak opuściłam Bombaj i wędruję po zielonych przestrzeniach Indii.
O Bombaju jeszcze wspomnę, o blogerach, których tam spotkałam, o jedzeniu.
Wyczekujcie, obserwujcie konto na Instagramie.
Praca + podróżowanie + eksplorowanie + spotkania z ludźmi + blogowanie + zderzanie się z inną kulturą + pozostawanie w stałym kontakcie z Polską, gdy się jest w zupełnie innym świecie, wymaga funkcjonowania na wysokim, intensywnym poziomie.
Bywa bardzo wyczerpująco, ale satysfakcja wszystko rekompensuje.
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