Skopje musiałam przetrawić w głowie zanim zaczęłam o nim pisać. Stąd wpis dopiero teraz. I wiecie co? Chyba wciąż je trawię.
Trzy lata temu
Przybyliśmy tu o świcie, około 4:00, 5:00 rano. Ja, Daniel i Szymon. Byłam zaspana po całonocnej jeździe z Kosowa i po wyjściu z autobusu czułam się jak bym była w piżamie. Poranne słońce niby takie nowe, świeże, a już porządnie potrafiło dopiec. Ruszyliśmy z dworca w stronę miasta. Doczłapaliśmy do centrum i pierwsze wrażenie: Wtf? Co tu się dzieje?
Centrum miasta rozkopane, w rusztowaniach, brzeg rzeki pełen gruzu, powstają jakieś budowle antyczne, a w sąsiedztwie widzę nowoczesne galerie handlowe. Mindfuck.
Porobiliśmy zdjęcia na budowie, przeszliśmy starym mostem na drugą stroną i w jednej minucie trafiliśmy do innego świata.
Stary turecki bazar (największy turecki bazar poza Turcją), mnóstwo małych sklepików i kawiarni, stare urocze uliczki, witryny sklepowe w bibelotach i kolorowych sukniach ślubnych. 6:00 rano, zamówiliśmy kawę, jedzenie. Do sąsiednich stolików dosiadali mężczyźni (bo jak pisałam w notce o Ohrydzie, taki widok mężczyzn pijących kawę o poranku jest tu częsty), toczyli dyskusje i pili kawę. Tak wooolnooo i woooolnooo.
I dokładnie pamiętam, że pomyślałam:
„jak tu jest pięknie, sielankowo, czas płynie spokojnie, nikt się nie spieszy, ludzie się do siebie uśmiechają, mają czas na rozmowę i do tego kawa w tygielku tak pięknie pachnie. Wrócę tu.”
Trzy lata później
Przyjechałam sama, ale zbyt długo sama nie pobyłam, bo już pierwszego dnia poznałam ludzi, dzięki którym jeszcze przyjemniej wspominam pobyt.
Bardzo byłam ciekawa w co przemieniły się sterty cegieł i tony betonu.
Tym razem znowu zaniemówiłam. Brzeg rzeki został uporządkowany, zniknęły rusztowania, ale nagle wśród galerii handlowych i bloków wyrosły białe łuki, budowle i rzeźby rodem z antycznego XXI wieku. Taki konkret kwiat do kożucha. Jak białe antyczne rzeźby ogrodowe, tylko powiększone do ogromnej skali i powsadzane w tkankę miejską.
Wszystko to stworzono w ramach projektu Skopje 2014.
Zerknijcie na to
Oto dlaczego warto wracać do niektórych miejsc.
Młodzi macedończycy wcale nie są z tych zmian zadowoleni. Rząd pakuje pieniądze w takie cuda architektoniczne, a brakuje pieniędzy na edukację, nowe miejsca pracy, lepsze drogi.
Ale wiecie co jest najgorsze (albo najlepsze), że mimo tych dziwnych budowli i szarych ulic to miasto ma dla mnie klimat. Nie każdemu się spodoba. Ja lubię intrygujące miejsca.
Mój pierwszy dzień wśród tańczących ludzi
Kilka godzin godzin po przylocie umówiłam się z Aleksandrą (blogerką).
Przyszłam pół godziny przed spotkaniem, by usiąść pod fontanną (której tu trzy lata temu jeszcze nie było), poobserwować ludzi, zjeść wytęsknionego burka (wiem, tłusty, ale co tam) i wchłonąć klimat miasta.
Siedzę na schodku przy fontannie zmieniającej kolory, przede mną centrum handlowe, po lewej stronie nowy-antyczny budynek Muzeum, za którym rozpościera się klimatyczny Old Bazaar, po prawej stronie nowoczesne knajpki, za mną nowa-antyczzna rzeźba jakiś ludzi, a niedaleko wielki pomnik Aleksandra Wielkiego.
Trafiłam akurat na festiwal zwany „Białą Nocą” (wystawy, koncerty, wydarzenia kulturalne organizowane na ulicach Skopje). Po wizycie w knajpkach w Old Bazaar, Aleksandra zabrała mnie do Młodzieżowego Centrum Kultury. Obejrzałam kilka wystaw i artystycznych instalacji, zapoznałam się z niektórymi artystami i przed budynkiem zaczął się koncert.
Skakałam przed sceną wśród Macedończyków i zapomniałam, że mówimy innym językiem. Ludzie się uśmiechali, czuliśmy ten sam rytm, radosną atmosferę.
I wtedy zrozumiałam, że to miasto to ludzie i dlatego tak je lubię. I jeszcze kawa z tygielka w Old Bazaar, kolorowe papryki na targu, ajvar, burki, XV-wieczny most i w tych powtykanych w miasto budowlach też jest coś intrygującego i nawet w tych szarych ulicach poza centrum miasta.
Coś co pewnie jeszcze odkryję jak tu wrócę. Na to liczę, bo dobrze jest wracać do niektórych miejsc.
[Jeśli szukacie noclegu w Skopje, sprawdźcie pokoje na airbnb u Ivana.]
Byliście w Skopje? Jestem ciekawa Waszych wrażeń.
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